Rome, day 3

First, some additions to day 2. We enjoyed antipasti at our hotel, 4 regional cheeses and a plate of Bresaola, thin slices of dried beef from Lombardy, sprigs of arugula, olive oil, lemon, and shavings of Parmesan. Yes, it was delicious. Then dinner at a local sidewalk restaurant. The waiter confided that their specialty was meats, but just having had beef, we decided on risotto with shrimp and zucchini, followed by saltimbocca, veal scallops and prosciutto encasing sprigs of fresh sage. After tucking into the veal, we heard this loud sizzling from the table behind us, then were assaulted by the aroma of grilled steak. I had to see what it was, so pretending to walk down the sidewalk I glared at their 2 lb. Porterhouse steaks, still sputtering on their hot metal plates. A lesson about listening to your waiter, I think. As we left, the happy meat eater was still gnawing the loin bone.

On Saturday we took a taxi to Circus Maximus and walked our way around the ancient city. A word about Rome traffic - the drivers are insane. As if in a video game, they race one another for any empty space, down impossibly narrow streets, bumper to bumper and door to door. They merge lanes, ignore traffic signals, cut in and out, at breakneck speeds. Mix in scooters that are trying to get ahead of every car, and it seems total chaos. But if you are riding in a taxi, this can be a lot of fun!

While standing on a terrace overlooking the Forum ruins, we had a long, fun conversation with a couple from Belgium, Louis and Leliane, who recommended lunch at the Hotel Forum. We took their suggestion and had a nice table at a rooftop restaurant looking out over ancient Rome. Sanda's tagliatini with seafood and my Swordfish "Sicilian" were extravagant but delicious, while watching rain begin to fall on the ruins of Caesar's Rome. We taxied back home in our race car.

Later the rain stopped so we walked up beautiful, winding streets to the Spanish Steps, then to the Trevi Fountain for another visit. Then we scooted back to our hotel to dress for dinner. Same place as Thursday night, and it was not a mistake. An appetizer of two artichokes flanking thin slices of octopus arranged like lacework. Then Sanda's turbot topped with thin slices of roasted potato, and my grilled fish with shrimp, langoustine and squid - just incredibly fresh, simple, and good. Well matched by a white Vermentino from Sardinia. Finished with Tiramisu and espresso -well, it was a fine time. We enjoyed talking with the young couple next to us who were from South Africa. Learned much about Capetown, their culture, and his job as a hedge fund manager, causing him to have many questions about our economy, politics and his hopes for Obama's success.

Another incredible day in Rome. Tomorrow we pick up our car and drive to Todi in Umbria.

Tomorrow, rent a car and on to Todi!